<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?>
<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/utility/FeedStylesheets/atom.xsl" media="screen"?><feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xml:lang="en"><title type="html">Glossary</title><subtitle type="html" /><id>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/atom.aspx</id><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/default.aspx" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/atom.aspx" /><generator uri="http://communityserver.org" version="4.1.40407.4157">Community Server</generator><updated>2009-10-27T10:05:00Z</updated><entry><title>Monoprint</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/monoprint.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/monoprint.aspx</id><published>2010-01-19T16:47:00Z</published><updated>2010-01-19T16:47:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;Monoprints are traditionally works&amp;nbsp;on paper, but the monoprinting technique is now used by many quilt artists to print their fabric.&amp;nbsp;It involves painting or inking onto a non-porous surface and pressing this surface onto a cloth to create a unique image. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=14738" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="surface design" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/surface+design/default.aspx" /><category term="fabric dyeing" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/fabric+dyeing/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Antique Quilts</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/antique-quilts.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/antique-quilts.aspx</id><published>2010-01-19T16:13:00Z</published><updated>2010-01-19T16:13:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;These older quilts are often valued for their historical merit and craftsmanship, and are a much sought-after collector&amp;#39;s item. Many art quilters garner inspiration from antique quilts, transforming and elaborating on their more traditional patterns and techniques. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=14737" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="handmade quilt" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/handmade+quilt/default.aspx" /><category term="quilting history" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/quilting+history/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Rag Quilt</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/rag-quilt.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/rag-quilt.aspx</id><published>2010-01-19T15:53:00Z</published><updated>2010-01-19T15:53:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;Rag quilts are made out of non-traditional fabricsm, such as flannel and denim. These fabrics are patchworked together, but the raw edges are left exposed to create a frayed edge. Unlike traditional quilts, rag quilts often don&amp;#39;t have a batting and backing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=14736" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="patchwork" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/patchwork/default.aspx" /><category term="quilting fabric" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/quilting+fabric/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Machine Embroidery</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/machine-embroidery.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/machine-embroidery.aspx</id><published>2010-01-19T14:45:00Z</published><updated>2010-01-19T14:45:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;Machine embroidery is a type of free motion machine stitching that uses either the basic running stitch or built-in stitch types to decorate a fabric surface with thread. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=14735" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="machine stitching" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/machine+stitching/default.aspx" /><category term="sewing machines" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/sewing+machines/default.aspx" /><category term="free motion matchine stitching" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/free+motion+matchine+stitching/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Patchwork</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/patchwork.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2010/01/19/patchwork.aspx</id><published>2010-01-19T14:33:00Z</published><updated>2010-01-19T14:33:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;Patchwork, sometimes referred to as pieced work, refers to a method of sewing together smaller pieces of fabric (or other materials) to create a larger design. Traditionally, patchwork involves geometric shapes that are precisely cut to the same size, but contemporary methods often&amp;nbsp;take a more freewheeling approach and use fabric pieces of different sizes and shapes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=14734" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="patchwork quilt" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/patchwork+quilt/default.aspx" /><category term="handmade quilt" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/handmade+quilt/default.aspx" /><category term="quilting fabric" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/quilting+fabric/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Lutradur</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/28/lutradur.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/28/lutradur.aspx</id><published>2009-10-28T11:37:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-28T11:37:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;This is a polyester fabric-like material that has a wide variety of applications. It can be drawn or painted on to create a colored surface that still filters light. It is quite sturdy and can be cut into without fraying, and heat set up to 400 degrees F. It is strong enough to carry embellishments, but sufficiently lightweight to be sewn.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;&lt;img src="http://eimages.interweave.com/products/240/QM0219.jpg" id="PhotoThumbnails_imgPhoto" style="border-width:0px;" alt="" /&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12709" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="polyester" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/polyester/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Batting</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/28/batting.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/28/batting.aspx</id><published>2009-10-28T11:10:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-28T11:10:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 10pt;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:Calibri;font-size:small;"&gt;Also referred to as filling or wadding, batting is a layer of material (usually cotton, polyester, and/or wool) that is used as insulation between the top and bottom layers of a quilt. It comes in a variety of weights, from low loft to high loft, and sizes. Most batting is natural (undyed) but it is aslo available in black. The batting is secured to the top and bottom using quilting stitches that go through all three layers of the quilt sandwich. The type of batting used depends on the nature of the project. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12708" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="quilting" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/quilting/default.aspx" /><category term="quilt sandwich" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/quilt+sandwich/default.aspx" /><category term="wadding" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/wadding/default.aspx" /><category term="filling" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/filling/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Encaustic</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/encaustic.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/encaustic.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T18:39:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T18:39:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="line-height:115%;font-family:&amp;#39;Calibri&amp;#39;,&amp;#39;sans-serif&amp;#39;;font-size:11pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri;mso-bidi-font-family:&amp;#39;Times New Roman&amp;#39;;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;"&gt;This refers to the process of adding heated pigmented wax (usually beeswax) to a surface. The wax/paint can be shaped before it sets using special metal tools. Though traditionally a form of painting, encaustic can also be used as a collage-like technique that incorporates fabric, fibers, and other materials. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12686" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="fiber" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/fiber/default.aspx" /><category term="collage" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/collage/default.aspx" /><category term="wax" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/wax/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Silk Rods</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/silk-rods.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/silk-rods.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T17:55:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T17:55:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="line-height:115%;font-size:10pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;These are byproducts of reeling silk from the cocoon; silk accumulates on these rods and remnants of it remain. The resulting rods can be dyed or separated into layers, and used in paper making, stitching and silk fusion. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="line-height:115%;font-size:10pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;&lt;img src="http://eimages.interweave.com/products/240/QM0651.jpg" id="PhotoThumbnails_imgPhoto" style="border-width:0px;" alt="" /&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12683" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author></entry><entry><title>Silk Cocoons</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/silk-cocoons.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/silk-cocoons.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T17:44:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T17:44:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="line-height:115%;font-family:&amp;#39;Helvetica&amp;#39;,&amp;#39;sans-serif&amp;#39;;font-size:10pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;"&gt;Cocoons, the purest form of silk, can be stretched and spun into yarn or left whole for collage and other fiber art projects. They can be bought pre-dyed or ready for dyeing and/or hand painting. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="http://eimages.interweave.com/products/240/QM0339.jpg" id="PhotoThumbnails_imgPhoto" style="border-width:0px;" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12681" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="silk" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/silk/default.aspx" /><category term="dyeing" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/dyeing/default.aspx" /><category term="collage" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/collage/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Photo Transfer</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/photo-transfer.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/photo-transfer.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T16:27:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T16:27:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 10pt;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;Photographic images can easily be transferred onto fabric using photo transfer paper. First, the photograph is printed onto the paper, which is then ironed onto the fabric, transferring the image. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12679" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="printing" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/printing/default.aspx" /><category term="photography" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/photography/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Straight Strip Binding</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/straight-strip-binding.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/straight-strip-binding.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T16:19:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T16:19:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="line-height:115%;font-size:11pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri;mso-bidi-font-family:&amp;#39;Times New Roman&amp;#39;;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;This method of binding is most suitable for rectangular quilts that don&amp;rsquo;t have curved or complicated edges. The binding can be cut crosswise from the fabric, and is not sewn together into one continuous strip as in bias binding. It is attached to the quilt by aligning the raw edge of the binding material with the raw edge of the quilt sandwich, right sides facing, and sewing through all three layers of the quilt, usually using a &amp;frac14;&amp;quot; seam allowance. To finish, the binding is folded over to the front of the quilt and slip stitched in place, similar to&amp;nbsp;bias binding. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12678" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="quilt sandwich" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/quilt+sandwich/default.aspx" /><category term="bias binding" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/bias+binding/default.aspx" /><category term="slip stitch" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/slip+stitch/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Self Binding</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/self-binding.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/self-binding.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T16:17:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T16:17:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 10pt;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;This is one of the quickest and easiest ways to finish a quilt, though it is slightly less sturdy than other methods. To self-bind, trim the excess backing fabric so that it is even along each edge of the quilt, then fold it over and onto the front of the quilt. Slip stitch the backing fabric in place to finish. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12677" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="binding" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/binding/default.aspx" /><category term="slip stitch" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/slip+stitch/default.aspx" /><category term="backing fabric" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/backing+fabric/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Bias Binding </title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/bias-binding.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/bias-binding.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T16:15:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T16:15:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 10pt;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;This method of binding is best for quilts with curved edges since it uses strips that are cut along the bias (diagonally across the fabric), and are therefore stretchier. To join the strips of fabric, lay one strip on top of the other at a right angle, with right sides facing, and stitch across the diagonal so that when you open the two strips, they lie straight. The binding is then attached by aligning the raw edge of the binding material with the raw edge of the quilt sandwich, right sides facing, and sewing through all three layers of the quilt, usually using a &amp;frac14;&amp;quot; seam allowance. To finish, the binding is folded over and attached to the front of the quilt using a slip stitch, similar to straight strip binding. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12676" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="binding" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/binding/default.aspx" /><category term="bias" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/bias/default.aspx" /><category term="slip stitch" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/slip+stitch/default.aspx" /><category term="straight strip binding" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/straight+strip+binding/default.aspx" /></entry><entry><title>Betweens</title><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/betweens.aspx" /><id>/blogs/glossary/archive/2009/10/27/betweens.aspx</id><published>2009-10-27T16:05:00Z</published><updated>2009-10-27T16:05:00Z</updated><content type="html">&lt;p class="MsoNormal" style="margin:0in 0in 10pt;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:small;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;"&gt;These very short needles are needed to produce the small quilting stitches. The higher the needle number, the shorter the needle. Sizes 7, 8, and 9 are most often used as quilting needles. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/aggbug.aspx?PostID=12674" width="1" height="1"&gt;</content><author><name>pippapatchwork</name><uri>http://www.quiltingdaily.com/members/pippapatchwork/default.aspx</uri></author><category term="hand quilting" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/hand+quilting/default.aspx" /><category term="quilting stitches" scheme="http://www.quiltingdaily.com/blogs/glossary/archive/tags/quilting+stitches/default.aspx" /></entry></feed>